Soba noodles are one of the few noodles that are actually better cold than hot. They don’t have that gummy, starchy thing happening, and they stay soft and wonderful even after a sleepover in your fridge. This cucumber and watercress salad is perfect for hot nights.
Potatoes are out (only temporarily) and cauliflower is in. This gratin smothers thick slabs of the tender veg in a creamy sauce and lots of cheese. The bread crumb studding is optional, but a highly delicious addition.
Think of this as highbrow ranch. Scalliony oil gets sizzled with cilantro stems and swirled into thick, lemony labne. It's *one* of Alison Roman's greatest hits.
